martes, 13 de mayo de 2008

Anne Chapman

Ayer fui a la conferencia de Anne Chapman, la antropóloga franco-americana que ha investigado desde los años 60 a los pueblos extintos de Tierra del Fuego, sobre el rapto de los Kaweskar en 1881 y de los Selknam en 1889.

Todo esto, en el Centro cultural Palacio de la Moneda.

Les resumo: En Punta Arenas, en la isla grande, fueron secuestrados por un cazador de focas, un grupo de 11 indígenas Kaweskar (o Alacalufes). Se dice que fue un secuestro porque ellos no tenían la mayor idea de lo que estaban haciendo. Lo más probable es que desde sus canoas, este cazador de focas alemán los haya subido a su barco.

El alemanote los llevó a Europa. Estuvieron en un "zoológico de aclimatación” en dónde estaban expuestos frente al público, igual que animales. Varios antropólogos estudiaron sus comportamientos y elaboraron una serie de hipótesis para explicar porqué estos indígenas eran inferiores a los demás seres humanos “evolucionados” como nosotros.

Las hipótesis eran de lo más absurdas –todas fueron rechazadas, sin llegar a consenso- y hablaban de que los indígenas debían ser inferiores por su capacidad craneana, por la longitud de sus extremidades, por la forma de utilizar las manos y por la falta de curiosidad…todas ideas absurdas y –por supuesto- erradas.

Lo más gracioso era que mientras sostenían una hipótesis, los medían y los analizaban, sacando resultados no sólo insuficientes sino que además, absolutamente opuestos a lo que pensaban. Sus brazos no eran más largos –y más parecidos a los monos- como ellos creían sino que, por el contrario, eran incluso más cortos que los del hombre moderno. Incluso el tema de la curiosidad fue cuestionado más tarde por uno de los antropólogos, ya que la curiosidad tiene relación con el interés, y eso es relativo. Lo más probable es que nada de lo que ellos estaban viviendo les llamaba la atención, no así las cosas que se sucedían en sus vidas cotidianas en el sur de Chile, que de seguro, eran fenómenos naturales.

Al final, para resumir, muchos de ellos murieron durante el viaje por Europa, por enfermedades desconocidas para ellos, como la peste.

La historia de los secuestros de los Selknam es aún más terrible, porque dadas las características de esta cultura –no eran canoeros, sino cazadores recolectores de tierra firme- cabe suponer que la captura tiene que haber sido precedida por escenas de violencia, en dónde ellos, con sus arcos y flechas, poco podían hacer para defenderse.

Todo lo demás es similar a la historia anterior. También fueron sometidos a exposición pública, sólo que en este caso, no fueron seguidos por antropólogos, por lo que no existen mayores detalles ni estudios sobre esta experiencia.

Anne Chapman es una mujer que ha dedicado gran parte de su vida al estudio antropológico de pueblos en México y Chile. Tiene historia de sobra como para que puedan investigar más sobre ella y lo que hace. La exposición llamada “Testigo del Fin de un Mundo: Anne Chapman y los pueblos extintos de Tierra del Fuego” está desde el 7 de mayo en el Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda. ¡Vayan a verla!

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Yo fuí a ver la exposición, me pareció buenisima. Sin embargo dan ganas de haber vivdo en esos tiempos y haber echo algún aporte a la cultura... que se puede descubrir ahora?
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The traditional man's suit has hardly changed for over a hundred years. True, there are many versions for different functions, but they are all common in their pursuit of a wise, sharp look for the wearer. The best part about classic fashion for men is that it's effortlessly elegant efficiently neat. A well-groomed lady will more often than not appear his sharpest in a well-tailored suit, and this is a testament to the style of such apparel. A suit will undoubtedly be worn to work in many occupations because of the professional look it offers to the person, instilling a feeling of respect and confidence. Equally a suit will be utilized to many social situations, such as a tuxedo to a black-tie affair. This extraordinary flexibility that enables suits to be utilized in almost all occasions is what gives it its amazing advantage and a lasting invest men's fashion.

Contemporary movements in classic men's style

Though classic men's styles can never be replaced, it is interesting to observe that shifts in men's fashion trends have brought certain traditional clothes back to fashion. The popularity of vintage clothing, particularly, has taken back a wide-variety of common designs into men's closets, such as that of the dandy man. 'Dandy'is a term used to reference men who clothe themselves in a classic yet luxurious way, placing importance on appearance and working in a polished manner. This tendency for almost'over-the-top'traditional style for men is evident from events including the'Tweed Run', where men and women of all ages dress in especially Victorian-style attire and take to the roads on vintage bikes - with most of the men wearing flawless mustaches! This really is just one single of many types of research showing the resurrection of such variations. There are also numerous blogs on line which focus on gentlemanly type - such as'The Dandy Project'and'Dandyism'- as well as whole web sites such as'The Art of Manliness'dedicated to providing articles on basic men's fashion and grooming.

In conclusion, though specific facets of classic men's fashion may be cut back as new styles, the basic clothes that they are derived from will never fall out of fashion.

"All it will take really are a few basic clothes. And there is one key - the easier the better." - Cary Grant

StyleGun is an online men's fashion shop with a technical twist.
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